Step by step Simple Socks: week two

Since I didn’t start the socks til after 1 the first week, I’m taking a break to make something for a lovely lady til after lunch.
The full effects of my feverish cold have slammed home, so I couldn’t do much.

After getting back to 60 stitches, knit another round, and then try it on. Your toes probably won’t fit through either, so knit 10 rounds and then try again. The pattern says to do 48 rounds, which is 10cm, but I have short feet and want as good a fit as poss.

Illness and busyness means that it’s taken me this long to do those 10 rounds. I had to divide back to an even amount on each needle, cos it was giving me a headache. The pouchy bit is the sock heel, and the back of that is a little off my heel so will have another fitting after another 10 cos I won’t be far off then.

Another fitting told me that I’m 11 rows off the heel fitting. Hopefully there won’t be that much more stretch without the dpns on that this blows up in my face.

So I kinda lost it and took the sock off the needles to try it on. So I have another 1.5 inches to cover when measuring the bare foot to the big toe.

And this is why we usually keep on the needles, those big bumps are stitches I haven’t picked back up yet.
I just realised that the easiest thing to do is to take foot length minus 2 inches and then measure sock from back of heel folded flat, until I achieve this measurement or just shy of it. My foot is 9 inches long, so I have 3 inches to get the 7 needed before toe shaping.
Not feeling well, I found the math involved too puzzling so am just gonna go with the 48 rounds specified.
I’m an investigative learner (but WHY is it like that?) so at 24 plain rounds, it really felt like that area was gonna get too big and I listened to that. So I’m gonna start the toe shaping, cos the worst that’ll happen is that I learn something.
If you didn’t place markers or they went all skewiff in the plain rounds, here’s how to start the shaping:
Follow the line of the first line of shaping up, and start your decrease on the stitch just before that row becomes straight. Knit 2 together, knit 2, SSK, knit for another 27 stitches, follow other line of shaping up, knit until 1 stitch before the row where that becomes straight, k2tog, k1, SSK, knit to end.
Next I’m gonna work one round plain, then work decrease rounds followed by plain rounds until I have 24 stitches left. Well, that’s the plan.
I’m not feeling well enough to tell which area I’m working, let alone if and when I should decrease, right now so will have to retire this for now.
Taking a break made me realised that I wasn’t having trouble with projects that had the same potential to baffle, and that I was really just bored because it’s not going how I want it. If I decrease in the way I laid out above (which is how it is in the pattern, I just worded it different), I realised that the toe will be a fair bit too long.
Now, either Sue Morgan was smoking the strong stuff when she wrote the pattern, or it’s just not that suited to my feet. I know from many failed shoe shopping trips that my feet are far from a standard shape, so this is gonna require more tweaking. And it’s not that this is a bad pattern necessarily, but it isn’t as explanatory as you really want when trying something for the first time. No measurements are given for the foot it’s designed for, I had to guess at what sizes she classified as medium, and yet she gives no guidelines for the adjustments that she tells you you can make. That’s why this is such a slog for me, I keep having to second guess myself. There are hopefully patterns that I’ll have less trouble with, but it’s hard to tell as it was only when I started working the pattern that the snags became apparent.
In my fuzzy-brained state, it looks like I’m not gonna have enough yarn for a second sock. I’ll weigh the ball before finishing the first sock, and will probably tell myself off for being silly as she had enough to make them for an apparently larger foot. I have had so much trouble with the pattern that I have lost all faith in it, and can only hope that the second sock goes more smoothly.


Once I got down to 24 stitches, it was time to graft. To do that, arrange half of the stitches on two needles so that the 6 stitches at the start and end of the round are on the back needle and the middle 12 are on the front. Then cut the trailing yarn to 20cm from your sock, and thread through a darning needle (from here on called dn). *Pass the dn through the back loop of the first stitch on the front needle, then through the front of the first stitch on the back needle. Pass the dn through the front loop of the first stitch on the front needle, pop the stitch off the needle. Pass the dn through the back loop of the first stitch on the back needle, pop off the needle.* repeat ** until needles are empty, push dn inside, weave in both ends.
Try sock on if it’s for you; it will be a little tight if it hasn’t been blocked. Now, you probably won’t have a sock blocker, so the easiest thing to do is pull the sock onto your hand, stick your thumb in the heel, and gently pull on the cuff until it goes down your arm. Duck noises are optional.
do not start the other sock yet, take a short break

Lets have a recap before starting the second sock. I’m gonna list everything I did, and put any differences in the original instructions like this. These instructions are for a foot that measures just shy of 8″ from back of heel to tip of big toe, with a 10″ ankle:

Cast on 60 stitches loosely onto one needle using your favourite method, put 20 stitches each onto two other needles, line up so that all the stitches face the same way, with yarn tail on left needle, join by knitting first stitch tightly onto fourth needle. Make 16 rounds in 2×2 ribbing, followed by 40 57 plain rounds (which will come out as stockinette).
Knit first 15 stitches of next round, turn. You re now working flat
*Slip 1, purl 29, slip 1.
knit to end of row, turn*. Repeat ** until you have 30 rows.
With wrong side facing, *slip 1, purl 16, p2tog, purl last stitch, turn.
Slip 1, knit 5, SSK, knit 1, turn.* Repeat ** until there’s no more stitches you can decrease over (30 rows).
Pick up the 15 slipped stitches on the side nearest, knit the 30 remaining cuff stitches on another needle, pick up the slipped stitches on the other side with another needle, giving 4 total.
Knit until 3 stitches from the end of second needle, k2tog, knit to end of third needle. Knit ext st

I’ve been feeling unwell due to some pretty intense personal stuff, which is why this has turned out how it has. The result is an item that I can’t happily wear, so I’m gonna take a break and come back to it with fresh eyes.


5 thoughts on “Step by step Simple Socks: week two

  1. Sorry to read you’re going through hard time. I’ve had that same feeling, I can’t wear some mitains I knit during a bad moment, I’ve not even finished sewing them… Hope you’ll be feeling better soon.

    • 🙂 It’s getting better, thanks. I’m mourning the loss of my pet/friend, and I’m partly not able to frog and restart this project because I’m unable to think all that clearly but also partly because he was a bit of a fibre fondler who shared my progress with my knitting. He was particularly fond of the poor sock, and it doesn’t feel right to lose that as well yet.

      • I understand, I’m really sorry for your loss, it takes a lot of time to be able to come back to “normal life”. Maybe you can take some time off and then go back to the project when it feels right…

      • 😀 we all have to find our way, I guess.
        I’ve learned that the Ugliest FO thread of Rav is great for working out why some projects aren’t quite working. Talking it through, I realised that I need to try the toe-up pattern I keep returning to look at *adds it to queue*

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